Acadia National Park on Mount Desert Island, Maine, is one of the most accessible in the U.S. via public transport. I went the Columbus Day weekend, Oct 10-13, hoping to get a glimpse of some fall foliage that my California upbringing deprived me of. While the leaves were not quite at their peak color, this was a great time to go since it is the last weekend the park shuttle runs, and allowed me to miss some of the stampeding hordes of summer tourists (and the $$$ summer hotel rates).
- Flew into Bangor Airport.
- If money is no object, there is a small airport in Bar Harbor, but it is consistently several hundred dollars more expensive to fly into than the one in Bangor.
- If time is no object, you can also take a bus from the airport or South Station in Boston into Bar Harbor. The bus ride takes about 5 hours.
- Took a shuttle from Bangor to Bar Harbor area.
- Bar Harbor Shuttle runs three shuttles a day between Bangor and Bar Harbor, for $45 each way. The ride takes about an hour and 15 minutes. I ended up having a shuttle all to myself. The driver was very friendly and brought along a couple of Acadia hike guides for me to read on the ride. They will drop you off at any location in Bar Harbor or the surrounding areas.
- Arrived at Robbins Motel on Mount Desert Island.
- I picked this motel for its combination of cheapness and convenience to the Island Explorer shuttle route (stop is directly across the street). With its plastic furniture and metal heater threatening death if you place anything within 5 ft of it, it’s not going to win any awards for luxury. However, at $50 a night, the correct comparison should not be to the hotels in Bar Harbor (good luck getting one for under $150 unless you’re going in January), but to the campgrounds lining the road next to the Robbins on Highway 3, which will set you back $30-$40 a night to put up a tent. $10 more a night for hot water, heat, and a bed seems like a deal, especially if you go in the chilly fall months like I did.
- Island Explorer Shuttle into the Park.
- The Island Explorer Shuttle has eight routes that traverse Acadia National Park, Bar Harbor, and a large part of Mount Desert Island. Route 1 (Campgrounds) goes all the way from the Bar Harbor village green up Hwy 3, which is lined with motels and campgrounds that are at least 50% cheaper than the ones you will find in Bar Harbor. I took the earliest shuttle into the Hulls Cove Visitor Center, and then transferred to another shuttle that took me to Sand Beach.
Note: The Island Explorer Shuttle only runs from late June to October (Columbus Day), and beginning in September it runs on a more limited fall schedule.
- Day 1: Sand Beach to Otter Cliff to Jordan Pond
- This was a gorgeous walk, starting at a beach surrounded by meadows and going past pink granite cliffs covered in seabirds. The entire walkway is paved, and you can leave it to walk out on the cliffs and down to the beaches. If you’re not up for the walk, the shuttle bus also drives the entire route, stopping at key points.
Sand Beach with the Beehive in the upper right corner.
Granite cliffs along the walk. There are several lookouts to hop off the trail at.
Boulder Beach, a bit of a climb down off the trail
Otter Point, beautiful fall foliage, but no otters 😦
- After the walk, I picked up the shuttle and took it to Jordan Pond, where I walked a loop trail around the entire pond. There is also a restaurant here that’s been in operation for over 100 years and is famous for its popovers (hollow rolls).
Meadow at the start of the Jordan Pond loop trail
Trail looping through woods at the side of the pond
Midpoint of Jordan Pond trail
6. Day 2: Sieur de Monts Spring to Bar Harbor to South Ridge Trail
- Hopping on the shuttle again in the morning, I got off at the Sieur de Monts stop, where there is a Nature Center and the Wild Gardens of Acadia, which is landscaped with native plants of Acadia, like this pitcher plant:
Woodpecker in Wild Gardens of Acadia
From there, I walked along the Jesup Path and Hemlock Road through a meadow. Although these trails are often overlooked in favor of those leading to Acadia’s famous panoramic mountaintop views, after seeing glimpses of trees in on the shuttle ride I had a feeling this was not to be missed. My expectations were rewarded by the sight of florescent fall foliage lining the meadow. These two trails were hands down my favorite in the park, featuring white birch lining the path for storybook-like scenery.
Hemlock Road
Fall foliage on the Jesup Path
Meadow panorama
- After that, I took the shuttle back into Bar Harbor, and had lunch. The town was packed from two leaf-peeping cruise ships docking, so I didn’t stay long. I took the shuttle to the North Ridge Trailhead, and hiked up to the view at the top of Cadillac Mountain.
Nearing the top of Cadillac Mountain
Bar Harbor in the distance, can you spot the cruise ship?
7. Day 3: Bubble Pond
The final day, I only had until noon before I had to get back, so I just had time to make a short trip out to the last of the major shuttle stops, Bubble Pond, before heading back to my hotel for the pickup back to Bar Harbor airport.
Bubble Pond
Peramblings 